Watercolor Paper Tips for the Budget-Conscious Artist
In watercolor painting, there are only a few materials that really matter. We work with paper, paint and brushes and that’s it. No fancy mixing mediums are necessary, and once purchased, watercolor paint and brushes last a long time. Many artists have used the same brushes for 30+ years (not me, but I’m a beast to my brushes).
The watercolor supply that you will find yourself spending the most money on, and buying frequently, is your watercolor paper. In this article I want to share why paper is important, how to choose the right paper, and how to get the best value for your paper budget.
(This post contains affiliate links. I receive a small commission when you make a purchase using some of the links in this post.)
Watercolor Paper: What’s the Difference?
Watercolor paper can be a difficult item to shop for, because of the diversity of what’s available and the vast difference in quality between what is marketed as “student” and “artist” grade paper. The quality of your paper will affect how readily the paint flows, whether or not the paint dries evenly, how the paint is absorbed, whether it will stain the paper or lift easily, and whether the paper will pill or grow dull after many layers of water and paint. Tape or masking fluid on the wrong paper spells disaster for the artist, and there is nothing more disheartening than investing hours into a painting and realizing your masking fluid has permanently bonded with the paper, or the paper tears when you remove the tape.
Can’t I Use Both?
If you’re a budget conscious artist, and most of us are, you might be struggling with the higher price tag of 100% cotton, mould made paper. It might be your plan to use the "good paper” for your “serious” paintings and do all your practicing on cheaper cellulose blends. Can I encourage you strongly to consider using cotton paper as much as you are able?
When you use “student grade” or cellulose blend paper, because the way the paint moves is so drastically different than it is on 100% cotton, you develop working methods to compensate for this paper’s limitations. Thus it follows that when you switch to 100% cotton for your “good” copy of the painting, you have to adjust your working method for the different responsiveness of the change of paper. It’s adding to your burden of knowledge and suddenly what worked in the previous painting creates a different response!
There is also a feeling of increased pressure not to “waste” our best paper, which brings a tension to our movements and a feeling of failure when mistakes are made. This is not an environment where authentic art is created.
Make Learning Easier
It frustrates me that so-called “student grade” paper is often the worst kind of paper to give a new painter. To make their job of learning technique more difficult by giving them paper that fights with watercolor’s natural tendencies is just wrong, and I hate that cheaper papers are labeled in this misleading way. While I believe that artists can learn technique with even the most limited supplies (PLEASE don’t quit painting if you absolutely can’t afford better paper!), I hate that we make so readily available supplies that fight the beauty that is fluid, intuitive painting.
Tips for Making the Most of Your Paper Budget
I would encourage you, if you are struggling to invest in 100% cotton paper because of the cost, give yourself a paper budget and use it wisely. Shop for sales. Decide how much you can afford to spend on paper in a month, and then challenge yourself to buy that amount and see how long it takes to use it up. I have been surprised at how long a single full sheet of paper can last me, especially since I can paint on both sides; you might be too!
The cost of watercolor paper, per square inch, varies widely depending on size and finishing, i.e. full sheets of paper which you can tear to the size you prefer are more economical than blocks or pads of paper. Rolls of paper are the best value for your dollar, but I don’t recommend them because they take a lot of handling/wrestling to cut down to size, and it’s so easy to damage a roll or waste paper with a bad cut.
Read labels carefully when trying new brands; many an artist has found a great deal and then realized they ordered the wrong paper texture or weight.
Feel the texture of the paper if you can. Too much sizing will create a “slick” surface where paint pools without absorption, but not enough sizing will create a “paper towel” rapid absorbency that looks blotchy. We need a “just right” combination of sizing, texture and content for the perfect paper; the most well-known companies have done a good job of getting it right consistently.
Remember when trying new brands, if it doesn’t say 100% cotton on the label, it’s not 100% cotton (paper companies always want to brag about this if it’s true), and not all 100% cotton papers are created equal. A new brand you’ve never heard of that says it’s 100% cotton but is suspiciously cheap should be tested before you invest in a lot of it.
Ask for sample sheets from manufacturers so you can test a new paper out and see how it feels to use.
Many stores carry an economical “house brand” of paper that can be equivalent in quality to pricier world-renowned brands. (Blick’s Art Materials and Cheap Joe’s Kilimanjaro are two I’ve tried and like.)
Listen to the experts. Take note of the artists you admire and what they recommend. There is a reason they almost universally recommend 100% cotton; they want to make painting easier for you, and an artist who feels like they are working with a “friendly” paper is having more fun!
I’ve linked below two videos where I demonstrate how I test and use my watercolor paper. What works for me may not be your favorite; just remember, YOU are worth the investment in your art practice! We only get one life to live, and if your desire is to make art a part of that, make it a place of joy and discovery.
More on my recommended supplies for watercolor can be found on this page: https://learn.angelafehr.com/p/supplylist
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